What was supposed to be the highlight of my recent trip to Myanmarâ€™s Irrawaddy River wasnâ€™t happening.
But even though my lower back ached from an hour of hunching forward in a narrow canoe, my legs awkwardly jammed into the bow, I kept saying no when the guide asked if I wanted to head back.
And then it happened.
A group of river dolphins began surfacing in an arc around the other boat in our group. A fisherman standing on its prow called out to them in a strange, guttural language.